Zeppelin’s art-deco label designed in the 1920s by Bauhaus artist Hans Schlösser

Wine Icons: Max Ferd Richter Mülheimer Sonnenlay ‘Zeppelin’ Riesling

I remember attending a big trade event many years ago in London. The great and the good from all over the world were in attendance and there were hundreds of wines to try, but one stand really stood out, if you will excuse the pun. In the middle was a circular stand showcasing German Riesling. It was the model of Teutonic effieciency: you were given a book and pen upon entry with the details of each wine within, the wines were sat in a circular ice tray sat in a metal bucket perfectly tailored for those narrow, fluted bottles. You started with the dryest, Kabinett, and went all the way up to Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein, with every varient in between. I am not sure how long I was lost in that bright, citrusy, sensory assault but it was a good hour and it left a lasting impression on me.

German wine has not always enjoyed the best reputation on our archipelago. And with good reason, the Germans did themselves no favours by keeping the best stuff to themselves and exporting instead all the wine they did not drink; cheap, insipid, semi-sweet affairs that has framed German wines in the eyes of many consumers. So there has always been a distinct apathy and natural inertia to overcome to sell German wine in Britain.

But times change and so have the German’s export tendencies. Now increasingly we seeing many more outstanding examples of their pure, precise, aromatically intense and elegant whites, principally made from the iconic Riesling grape (these days even their reds are getting in on the action but talk of Spätburgunders, Lembergers and Schwarzrieslings will have to wait for another time).

Riesling vineyards in the Mosel, named for the Moselle River pictured

For me Riesling is the greatest white variety, one capable of a dazzling array of wine styles from bone dry to very sweet and everything in between. It also is the longest-lived variety, capable of prodigious ageing in the cellar and will utterly transform itself given time. Its versatilty has seen it go beyond Germany’s borders and into the New World, in particular Australia and New Zealand which can produce some beautiful examples.

But closer to home is this stunning expression of the variety. An ancient estate Max Ferd Richter is one of the most respected names in German winemaking; situated in the historic town of Mülheim on the Mosel river they have been in constant production since 1680. And in that time they have only ever dedicated their production to one variety: Riesling. Equally during that period they have only ever being owned and run by the same family, now with 9th generation Dr. Dirk Max Ferd Richter over-seeing production and the tenth generation, his son Constantine, already working with him. Tradition is highly valued in this here.

As ever with German wine there are many clues in its name: Mulheimer means ‘from Mulheim’ where Richter is based, Sonnenlay is the name of the vineyard close to the town of Mulheim and is itself coded: ‘sonnen’ the German for sunshine and ‘lay’ their name for slate, which should tell you everything about the vineyard’s steep south-facing slopes and its mineral-rich soils, perfect for cultivating Riesling.

And the Zeppelin moniker you may ask? This is an old wine vinified by the estate since the 1920s with barely any change, and in those early days it was proudly served on board the transatlantic flights of luxurious airships “Graf Zeppelin” and “Hindenburg”. This legacy is preserved on the label, a beautiful, evocative design commissioned from Bauhaus designer Hans Schlößer in the 1920s and still gloriously in use today.

Richter winemakers believe that great wine comes from the vineyards, not the cellar, and they strive for precision in their day-to-day winegrowing, and this wine reflects that exacting philosophy. Fermented in large, old oak barrels using only natural yeasts it gives wonderful expression to the grapes and develops the unique character of this incredible vineyard. This wine is just a joyous treat, a party in the mouth; crystal-clear, beautifully textured and tempered with a slightly off-dry twist but with the freshness of a crisp, sunny spring morning.

And the art on the label is reflected by the liquid magic of the Mosel inside. Golden hues are shot through with emerald tints and the perfume is compelling and pure with spring blossom, ripe orchard fruit, fresh citrus notes and just a merest twist of fresh herbs. The palate is vibrant with citrus, green apple and coriander seed, mouth-watering acidity and a whiplash of slate-like minerality. Throughout it shimmers with energy; precise, fresh and a moreish sweetness that leads into a long satisfying finish. You can drink it young or give it 5-8 years from the vintage. Its low alcohol (usually 10-11%) means it is the perfect lunch time tipple, as an aperitif or try it with caprese salad and light fish and seafood dishes. If I had it on my desert island (and it would be a strong contender) I would have it with plates of olives, cheeses, charcuterie and good bread.

Truly a special wine and one that will not break the bank. Good availability in the Uk and available for around £15 a bottle. Enjoy.

Written by James Cole