Domaine de Mourchon: Séguret’s Secret Weapon

The Rhône is bestrode by some behemoth estates like M. Chapoutier and Famille Perrin (both names as close a guarantee of quality as you will find in wine) but there are plenty of high-quality smaller producers, and here I want to tell you about one of my absolute favourites.

The first point of order to start any discussion of the Rhône is to properly divide it into two. The North and South Rhône gets lumped together but should be viewed as two very distinct regions. The climates, cuisines and wine styles are very different, and they even support different rugby teams! The North is smaller and cooler with a continental climate, its vineyards typified by steeply terraced vineyards rising up from the river at its heart, with granite soils. Here the red wines are predomitably single-varietals, forged almost exclusively from Syrah. Viognier is the big player for whites but Marsanne and Rousanne do put in cameos here and there. With its focus on these fewer varietals and terroir-driven, single-vineyard expressions you could make an argument that it has more in common with its neighbour to the north, Burgundy.

The South is an altogether different affair; flatter, hotter with a Mediterranean climate and less sheltered from the mischevious Mistral. Here there is a large ensemble of grape varieties used led principly by Grenache in the reds, but also Syrah, Mouvèdre, Carignan and Clairette to name but a few. The whites include Viognier but here it is blended with Marsanne and Rousanne, as well Bourbulenc, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul. Its most famous son, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, allows up 19 varieties in its creation. While single-varietal vines are on the rise, here blending is the norm and the wines are more fruit-forward and generally lighter and friendlier, especially with the reds.

The beautiful village of Séguret

For now our adventure lies in the south, and to the stunning village of Séguret. There are four classifications in the Rhône: humble Côte-du-Rhône, generic Côte-du-Rhône Villages, named-village Côte-du-Rhône Villages and full Cru staus, like Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The wines of Séguret are the third one, one removed from Cru status. For years it was a village producing worthy wines little-known beyond its immediate vicinity. However that was to change with the arrival of a certain Scotsman Walter McKinley and his wife looking for somewhere to retire after a career in the restaurant industry.

And with the help of friend and Master of Wine Mark Savage he found exactly that. A small, well-established vineyard of limestone terraces set high in a secluded valley in the Séguret hills across from the mighty Mount Ventoux. It was full of the region’s greatest treasure: ancient Grenache and Syrah vines that would disappear into the vats of the local co-operative. But Walter had a different vision and set about building a winery and brought oenologist Sébastien Magnouac and Domaine de Mourchon was born.

Careful viticulture is the watchword at Mourchon. They are ceritified both organic and biodynamic to boost soil health and cultivation of the vines, creating an miniature ecosystem that promotes biodiversity, delivering balanced fruit at harvest at optimal maturity. A gravity-fed winery was completed in 2000 that operates across three levels that allows the nascent wine to flow through its vinification stages with minimal intervention from machine or man.

Once in the winery the berries are sorted and then lightly crushed. The varied parcels are vinified seperately according to variety and terroir and spontaneously fermented with wild yeasts in stainless steel tanks, although a small proportion of fruit from the oldest vines is fermented in oak or ceramic jar. Remontage or pumping over of the juice over the must of skins occurs for a period of 2-4 weeks. The new wine will then be mostly aged in concrete vats, an inert material first used by the Romans in the area that allows the wines to develop the nuance of the terroir naturally. Some of the top parcels will be aged in oak for the extra complexity that lends the wine.

The parcels are tasted extensively throughout the ageing process before the final selection or assemblage. Here they are chosen for the complementary characteristics shaped by the vageries of any given vintage for the varied cuvées the estate produces. The finished wines are incredibly expressive of the terroir and the unique nature of each growing season.

Mourchon make several different cuvées, including a Châteauneuf-du-Pape (from fruit shipped in), a dessert wine and two single-variety wines, the Family Reserve Syrah and Grenache, from vines over 100 years old. But I am focusing what I consider to be their core four: two reds ‘Tradition’ and ‘Grande Reserve’, the white ‘La Source’ and their inimitable rosé ‘Loubie’

Who I am I to argue with Jancis? The Tradition is a beautiful drop of Rhône red and one instrumental in forging the reputation of the estate. The majority of it is Grenache, with smaller percentages of Syrah and Carignan in the blend, from vines which are forty years old on average. It is aged in the neutral concrete vats before bottling, which really allows the wine to just sing with natural terroir nuances. I will disagree with Jancis on one point: from experience this wine really starts to shine 4-5 years after harvest and will continue to drink for a decade. It has a bright perfume of fresh raspberries, morello cherry and plum all deliciously dusted with spice. The palate is balanced with good freshness, ripe tannins and a lovely, silk-like texture. That rich red berry fruit is tempered by more savoury elements of ground black pepper and black olive that emerge over its long finish. Enjoy on its own but it is versatile with food, think grilled and roasted red meats, hearty stews, mushroom risotto and tangy cheeses. Best way to buy this en primeur at around £90-£100 per dozen in bond, but expect to pay around £15 a bottle when landed.

Put simply the Grande Reserve is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape killer. It is sourced from older vines averaging 60 years old and is a classic blend of Grenache (70%) and Syrah (30%). Unlike the Tradition a portion of the fruit is barrel-aged, gifting the wine greater complexity and structure for ageing, expect it to cellar for 10-15 years at a minimum. For me this is the signature wine of the estate, its flagship and marker thrown down to the rest of the region, deserving of icon status. Concentrated, it is a puissant tour-de-force with an arresting perfume of crushed strawberry, black cherry, pomegranate seed, cassia bark, licquorice and wild garrigue that impels you to linger for a while. The palate has smooth, rounded tannins and good freshness with wonderful intensity on the attack and fascinating complexity across the mid-palate. Spiced plum, hedgerow blackberry, violets and orange oil blend compellingly throughout, leading on to a harmonious and achingly long finish. Start drinking 2-3 years after harvest and continue for over a decade. Serve with rich red meat dishes, wild game and creamy cheeses. Buy en primeur for around £140 per dozen in bond, or £20-£25 per bottle for landed stock.

What can you say about white Rhône? Misunderstood, underappreciated? It’s not surprising Rhône’s whites sit in the shadow of the reds given they only makes up around 6% of the region’s production. But ignore them at your peril, and La Source is a wonderful intriduction to the richly-textured, aromatic style. It is a heady blend of *deep breath*Grenache Blanc (25%), Rousanne (25%), Marsanne (15%), Viognier (15%), Clairette (10%) and finally Bourboulenc (10%) (I believe there is also some kitchen sink in there). The grapes are sourced from the lower plains of Séguret and are picked in the cool of the night to preserve aromatic intensity and freshness. And the wine has both in spades, with a decadent nose crammed with wild flowers, fresh apricot, ripe peach, lemon zest and a twist of white spice. There is great tension on the palate, with lively stone fruit abetted by honeydew melon and pear, with a weighted texture that frames the fruit beautifully. Serve well chilled and drink on its own or match with fish and seafood dishes, young cheeses and lighter spiced Asian cuisine. Drink on release and over the next 2-3 years after harvest, expect to pay around £15 per bottle.

It may surprise you to know that rosé actually outstrips white in production in the Rhône, typically around 15%, slightly skewed by the fact villages like Tavel devote their entire output to its delicate hue. Often overlooked for their pink cousins to the south, Rhône rosés can be outstanding, generally with a bit more weight and richness than Provence. And Mourchon’s Loubie is a revelation and one of the best I have come across. A blend of Grenache and Syrah sourced from young-vine sites on sandy, limestone and clay soils, the fruit is picked at sunrise to take advantage of the cooler temperatures and to lock in freshness. Directly pressed and cold-settled before a cool fermentation and bottled early this is a sublime rosé with complex aromatics of crushed strawberry, summer pudding, ripe peach and a hint of tangerine. Beautifully fresh there is a creaminess to the palate, with that lush red berry fruit, a dusting of white pepper and a long finish. Perfect as an aperitif and ideal partner to a al fresco lunch. Match with salads like Niçoise or burrata and basil, as well as light, creamy seafood dishes. Expect to pay around £15 per bottle, worth every penny!

In my time in the industry I have sold a lot of Mourchon and year after year the wines just seem to improve as this young winery has really found its feet and place with the region’s hierachy. What particularly stands out is the value these wines provide year after year, with prices remaining admirably stable, and the wines over-delivering at their respective price points. It is little wonder that Robert Parker was an early cheerleader, and the estate has admirers in top wine critics like Jancis Robinson and Jeb Dunnuck. And while I do not carry the same gravitas as them you can add my name to the list. Domaine de Mourchon should be in every cellar and in every wine rack.

Written by A James Cole